A certain kind of person goes to New Orleans, they aren’t coming back. At least not with their heart intact. New Orleans can make a person, even or perhaps especially a non-native, feel permanently out of place wherever else on the map they choose to roam. I know this because it happened to me on my inaugural visit (and has been happening to me every time I’ve gone back since). The people in my life, they know better than to bring up New Orleans lest I pull them down a rabbit hole of brass band record catalogs and dreamy clouds of beignet sugar. My favorite description of New Orleans comes from The New Mastersounds song “Welcome to Nola”: “it ain’t that big and it sure as hell ain’t easy but if you eat fried chicken you gonna get a little greasy”. And well, one way of understanding the New…